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One
probable day trip from Ho Chi Minh City is the bass thumping lively city
of Vung Tau which is a favorite weekend hangout among the Saigonese who
motor into town on weekends. Weekdays may be comparatively dull with
just long stretches of empty beaches.
A lot of expatriates may also be seen mingling among the crowd. The
area’s generally party atmosphere and commercial beach resorts have
lulled expats into pulling up and setting down roots on Vung Tau’s
shores. As can be expected, nights are filled with sounds from karaoke
bars lining the streets and resort clubs.
For those who prefer to see the sights than party, this shouldn’t deter
them from venturing into Vung tau for amidst all the noise, it is easy
enough to escape the sometimes seedy karaoke scene.
What to see
Atop Small Mountain (Nui Nho), a big statue of Jesus waits with arms
outstretched to embrace the South China Sea. A word of warning though,
some visitors, particularly those who are animal activists or very
religious people may find the sight of swallows nests in the statue’s
armpits and a collection of monkeys and snakes placed in cages at the
statue’s feet.
The
nearby lighthouse boasts a spectacular 360 degree view sans imprisoned
animals. From the ferry dock on D Ha Long, take a sharp right on the
alley north of the Hai Au Hotel, and then roll on up the hill.
Pagodas dot the length of D Ha Long, but prim Hon Ba pagoda sits
offshore on an islet, a rather nice place to be if low tide coincides
with sunrise.
Along the downtown waterfront, cafés and bars dot the hillside facing
the ocean. On weekends, tourists will have a very good chance of
observing the local color and hearing local amateurs belt out the
ballads du jour, backed by live bands. It’s like karaoke, only….good,
live entertainment.
For racing aficionados, there are weekly greyhound races held at the Lam
Son Stadium every Saturday evening.
Where to Stay
Back Beach features a guesthouse strip that offer travelers a wide range
of reasonably priced accommodations to choose from.
1. Thien Nhien
This airy friendly guesthouse is known to be very clean with some rooms
equipped with balconies, air-con and delightful ocean views.
2. Song Bien
Chinese-style décor brightens this very clean and comfortable place;
some rooms have big ocean views.
3. My Tho Guesthouse
About 2km north of central Vung Tau in a quieter area called Mulberry
Beach (Bai Dau), is the sweetest and most charming little guesthouse on
the peninsula. It has very simple but very homey rooms.
The friendly couple who run the guesthouse serve delicious, cheap home
cooked meals on the cozy terrace. Their services also offer free
laundry, cycle hire and friendly conversation. From the center, take D
Quang Trung Goung north, which turns into D Tran Phu.
Eating & Drinking
Back Beach
1. Quan Com Dai Duong
A small, family-run place serving seafood at reasonable prices.
2. Dai Lo
Serves both Vietnamese and Western food in a friendly atmosphere.
3. Tiem Com Chay Dieu Thien
Though the downtown area has several restaurants primarily geared for
the foreign tourists, this is the one cheap vegetarian option worth
seeking out. Outside the central waterfront area, this vegetarian shop
is easily reached either by cycling or on foot.
Try tofu with a choice of over a dozen ways of cooking, with veggie,
mushroom and jackfruit dishes, too. It’s yummy point-and-eat grub at
paltry prices. After dinner, head next door for a cold fruit shake, or a
soy dessert at the stall in front.
Mulberry Beach
1. Café 11
Has low thatch huts shading two-lover canvas chairs for intimate chats.
Cheap com is served on the terrace above; below, enjoy the views of
rocks covered with barnacles and basket boats.
2. Quan Tre bamboo
Go to this place if you’re hankering for lobster or a cocktail with a
view of the giant Mary with Baby Jesus statue, best enjoyed from the
upstairs terrace.
3. BB Bar/Whispers
Local expats usually start their evenings here for some well-prepared
Western food and perhaps a round of pool on one of the bar’s many pool
tables in a noisy, lively setting.
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