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On first arrival at Sukhothai, visitors
may find themselves overwhelmed with the small “sawngthaew mafia” that
hang around the bus station giving references to guesthouses. No, they
are nothing like the gun-toting mafia of the movies. They do, however,
give subjective references to guesthouses that pay them large
commissions for every successful transaction.
For visitors who have already done research and have their hearts set on
a particular guesthouse, don’t be swayed should the “mafia crew” tell
you the place is closed or dirty. It is always advisable that they look
and verify for themselves. If however, you don’t have any particular
house in mind, it wouldn’t hurt to take a look at some of their
recommendations. Just remember that looking doesn’t oblige you to take a
room.
Here are a few suggestions of where one may possibly stay at Sukhothai:
1. No 4 Guest House (Tel. 05561 0165, 140/4 Soi Khlong Mae Lamphan, Th
Withithong; s/d 120/180B)
The very first guest house in town has found a permanent home amid the
vegetable patches of ‘rural’ Sukhothai. A serene atmosphere that is
supported by the view and amenities of rustic bamboo-thatch bungalows
with private bathroom have inviting balconies for polishing of a novel
or watching the fields grow. Other rooms have shared bathrooms.
2. Ninety-Nine Guest House (Tel 0 5561 1315, 234/6 Soi Panitsan, Th
Jarot Withithong; dm 80B, d 150B)
About 150km west of No. 4, this quaint, charming house has been
converted into a guest house equipped with very comfortable rooms with
shared bathrooms and lots of communal space. One shower has hot water.
3. Ban Thai (Tel 0 5561 0163; guesthouse_banthai@yahoo.com; Th Prawet
Nakhon; d120-200B)
Situated along the banks of the Mae Nam Yom, Ban Thai is considered to
be a traveler’s “reliable old friend.” Cheaper rooms are straightforward
bed-fan-light numbers without bathrooms; in the back of the complex are
wooden teepees that relieve that childhood game of sleeping in a
backyard ‘fort’. Guests may also get reliable information on things to
see and do in the Sukhothai area from the very helpful reception crew.
4. Lotus Village (tel 0 5562 1484, lotusvil@yahoo.com; 170 Th
Ratchathani; s 120B, d 140-400B)
Set in the midst of spacious grounds with a garden sitting area, Lotus
Village is a classy joint with a variety of rooms for every budget. If
you’re looking for a little splurge, consider the more expensive rooms
in teak houses on stilts over a lotus pond. The owners speak English and
French.
5. Sawaddiphong (Tel.05561 1567; 56/2 Th Singhawat; d 350-500B)
This modern air-con hotel has lots of creature comforts, such as TV and
hot-water shower and is pretty much soundproofed from the racket outside
affording guests a quiet time for peace and relaxation.
Eating Round Town
All Thai towns are known to have their own signature dishes. Sukhothai
is definitely no different, weighing in with its own delicious version
of the kuaytiaw. In addition to the basic noodle soup recipe, innovative Sukhothai cooks add pickled cabbage adding a somewhat tangy and
interesting twist to the otherwise basic dish.
The night market near the Mae Nam Yom bridge and the municipal market
are perfect spots to get a taste of this and other quick eats and food
which can be had on the go.
Evening meals center on the series of open-air restaurants south of
Chinnawat Hotel just off Th Nikhon Kasem.
Dream Café near Sawaddiphong hotel, this is an air-con café decorated
with 19th century Thai antiques. Though now transformed to a commercial
dining venue for the tourist trade nowadays, the food quality remains
superb especially the house specialty, which is roasted eggplant with
basil and shrimp.
Khun Tanode ( Th Jarot Withithong; dishes 70-160B) On the western bank
on the Mae Nam Yom, this riverbank squatter sneaks a breezy view of the
water and serves tasty fried chicken and other Thai specialties.
The sight of the well-fed staff, is inspiring and encouraging enough of
the food’s quality that often, diners find it tough to stop at just one
order.
Getting There & Away
The Sukhothai airport is 27km outside town off Route 1195. Bangkok
airways (Tel 0 5563 3266-7; airport Tel 0 5561 2448) operate a daily
flight from Bangkok, Chiang Mai and Luang Prabang.
The bus station is 4km northwest of the town center on Hwy 101. Options
include the following: Bangkok (ordinary 128B, aircon 200B; seven hours;
every hour between 7am-2am), Chiang Mai (ordinary 122B, air-con 171B,
six hours, five per day), Phitsanulok (ordinary 23B, air-con 32B, one
hour, every 30 minutes from 6am- 8pm), Sawankhalok (ordinary 18B, 45
minutes, every hour from 6am to 6pm), Si Satchanalai (ordinary/air-con
27/38B; one hour, every hour from 6am to 6pm) Tak (ordinary 31B; 1 ½
hour every hour from 7am to 6pm).
Getting Around
From the bus station a chartered sawngthaew should cost 30B to your
guesthouse.when returning to the bus station, catch a public sawnhthaew
(4B) in front of the 7-eleven on Th Jarot Withithong. Across the road is
the stop for buses to the old city (10B)
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