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A Walk through Serangoon Road

by: Debbie Salcedo

 


Before there was Little India, It was just a road. A road that locals knew to be Serangoon Road.

The early Indian migrants to Singapore in the 19th century settled along the banks of the Rochore Canal. The area eventually became the center for breeding and raising cattle and various facets of trading. This background may in fact be seen reflected in the names of some of the streets in the area like Buffalo Road, Kerbau (meaning “buffalo”) Road, and Racecourse Road, where horse races were held in those times.

Over time, with more Indian arrivals in Singapore, Serangoon Road became “Little India,” the religious, cultural and economic center for settlers and the local Indian community.

Today foreign Indian workers add to the local population congregating there, to the point of dominating the ethnic groups who also hang around Serangoon.

Serangoon Road, the heart of Little India, is one of the oldest roads in Singapore. At meal times, the cafes and restaurants in the area are packed with mainly male Indians who normally use their fingers to eat hot curries and chappatis from the banana leaves that are used as plates in lieu of the more conventional ceramic plates.

The more famous of these restaurants are the Komala Villas Restaurant which serve up mainly vegetarian fare, and Muthu’s Curry which features the fish head curry as their specialty. Tourists who find themselves around the vicinity of Serangoon are very much encouraged to try the sumptuous and varied culinary offerings at Komala and Muthu’s.

Serangoon Road is also a favorite venue for walking tours and day trips among tourists and locals for its Hindu temples, shops that sell exotic Indian spices, and colorful, intricate jewelry. There are also plenty of textile shops, restaurants, small hotels, fortune-tellers and swing-door bars for those who are interested in them.

For a more quirky scene, you can have a parrots tell your fortune or buy from and mingle among the street peddlers parked in front of the ornate store fronts of shop houses, which retain and exhibit the traditional plasterwork technique in design.

Visitors may be surprised to find many mirrors hung above the doors of many shops on Serangoon Road and its side streets. These mirrors are hung with the believed that they ward off evil spirits and influences. Behind the ornate temple doors, age-old prayer rituals are being practiced with strange yet moving chants accompanied by the lighting of sultry incenses.

One’s senses also cannot help but be overwhelmed by the scent of heady spices, which are very much an integral part of Indian cuisine. They may also be amused by the predominant pink and green paint used at fresh flower shops. It is believed that the color pink symbolizes and invites good luck, while green is used to symbolize spring which brings with it life and vitality. It will probably interest most tourists to know that flowers play a very important role in the daily lives of Indian. Lovely blooms are used as offerings to deities, as garlands worn on auspicious occasions, and a adornments for hair and clothes.










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