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Considered as
Cambodia’s hillside eastern country, Mondulkiri is another world
compared with the rest of the country. A windswept landscape of rolling
hills and pine trees inhabited by hardy minority peoples.
It is the most sparsely populated province in Cambodia with just two
people per square kilometer; half the 35,000 people residing in the
region come from the Pnong minority.
Wild animals are more numerous, including elephants, bears and tigers,
although the chances of seeing the tigers are slim for passing tourists.
The provincial capital Sen Monorom, is in reality an overgrown village.
It is a character-filled community hemmed in by hills on all sides.
Elevated at a height of 800m above sea level, the winds here are
noticeably cooler than the rest of the country. The slow pace of life
followed here makes it the ideal base from which to lazily explore the
surrounding attractions.
What to do/see
The real draw of Mondulkiri is in the exploring either by motorbike or
on foot, following small paths and seeing where they lead.
Many paths end up in chunchiet villages. Waterfalls feature prominently
around the province, including Monorom Falls, the closest thing to a
public swimming pool for Sen Monorom, about 5km northwest of town; and
the Romanear and Dak Dam Waterfalls, both very difficult to find without
a guide.
Romanear is low and wide, with some convenient swimming holes, while Dak
Dam is a single drop like Monorom.
One of the largest waterfalls in Cambodia and famous throughout the
country, the Bou Sraa Falls, is a double drop into a jungle Gorge.
While being one of the most visited, it also poses a challenge to reach
since driving down the 37km road to the falls involves driving through
not one, not two, but three rivers!
Elephant rides can be arranged in nearby Pnong villages such as Putang
and Phulung. Popular guesthouses and the local tourist office can
usually arrange something for around US$20, including moto transport.
How to get there
Overland routes to Mondulkiri have improved in the last few years. From
Phnom its possible to reach Mondulkiri in eight hours during the dry
season, and a full day in the wet season. The fastest option is to take
one of the few pick-up trucks that head direct to Sen Monorom. Expect to
pay 30,000r-50,000r depending if you ride inside or outside the truck.
Book a place a day in advance since they normally leave at around 6am.
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